Inverness, Loch Ness and Holy Island -
Summer 2004

Inverness

We've been wanting to see Loch Ness for ages; it's something I've been fascinated with since a very young age. We'd planned to go a couple of years ago but, as they say, plans are things which keep God amused. Having put my foot down that we would have a holiday in the first two weeks of June, we settled that we'd to then.

We chose to stay in Inverness which would serve as a base allowing us to explore the area while still being in a town. As it's quite a way from London, we chose to fly up, then drive down to Northumberland, spend a day on Holy Island, and get the train back from Newcastle.

It started with the adventure that is a 7 am flight on a Sunday morning! As it was a bank holiday Monday, travelling on the Sunday gave us fares which were affordable by normal human beings and also gave us a whole day in Inverness; effectively an extra day of holiday. We got up at 4, were picked up at 4.30, were at Luton by 5.30, and siting outside Costa Coffee in Inverness waiting for tourist information to open by 9.30. Despite the shock to the system, I thoroughly recommend the early start, although make sure you've factored in time for a siesta later in the day.

We stayed in a very nice Guest House, a short walk from the centre of Inverness. I would definitely recommend this. It may not be in the centre but is near the end of the Caledonian Canal with its stepped lochs. If you're into industrial stuff it's definitely one to see and is also near the lovely village of Clannaharry. More about that later.

Trips around Inverness

We took a day trip including a cruise on Loch Ness, the Loch Ness 2000 experience - which is one of the best, grown up and thoroughly interesting exhibitions I've seen, Urquart Castle and lots of bits of history from Alison, our guide. Check out Explore Loch Ness for details.

Not to be missed for the evening is the Ghost Walk. A walking tour, with commentary from Davey the Ghost. Finishes in the Hootenanny, see below.

We also took a boat trip up the Moray Firth which sometimes lets you see the Dolphins in their natural habitat. No Dolphins on our trip but still a very pleasant outing.

Also pick up a leaflet detailing the red bus trips. They do several and there is a round trip to Fort George, Culloden and a couple of other spots. You can keep going round that route all day for the one fare. The one we did, as it was raining, was the distillery and winery tour. Only one trip a day, but a good introduction to whisky and a very interesting tour. The distinery is Glen Ord, a mild malt and great introduction for those without the taste for whisky as it's one of the less confrontational drams. The second part of the trip was to Moniack Winery; a local castle where the family have started making wine and condiments from local ingredients. Samples are provided on both trips.

Music in Inverness

If you're into traditonal music, or even just like a bit of fiddle, then you must check out the Hootenanny. Don't be put off by the aura of tourist trap, this is a great pub; there are even locals who drink there. We didn't catch the weekend guest spots but during the week there are music sessions taking place in the public bar of a very high quality. Good beer, music and possible to get a conversation going with other people in the crowd.

Beer in Inverness

Of questionable quality but you can find some very good pubs if you do your research first. We checked out what the CAMRA Good Pub guide said and came up with The Blackfriars, Number 27 and the Clannaharry.

The Blackfriars is a good pub for beer - check out the Red Cullen from the Isle of Sky Brewery - and uncomplicated, pub grub. There is usually a specials board with a great selection of local fish. Cèilidhs on Tuesdays and Wednesday. Tourist parties do end up here so you can watch the ritual humiliation of Japanese tourists being taught Scottish country dancing.

Number 27 is a bit too modern for my taste. Food was good but beer was a bit dodgy and well into that territory when you don't know if it's off or just a strident brew. Clannaharry apparantly has a good reputation for lunch and a quite beer garden out back. A good walk from the city centre.

Holy Island

We split the week into two parts; the second party started with a drive from Inverness, through the Scottish Highlands, through Edinburgh to Northumberland. We stayed in the Blue Bell Hotel which was frankly overpriced. They were over stretched that week: too many large parties too soon after one another. We did, however, get to witness a full scale bust up within the committee of the local golf club who were having a formal dinner there.

Holy Island was about five miles from where we were staying on the main land and we were particularly lucky with the tides: we had to get there by 2.30 pm and would be able to leave at 8.30 pm so we could spend the whole day there.

There are lots of little museums which are really interesting and you must take a trip to the Priory and its museum. A good point to start is here.

After a lovely day exploring the island we had dinner at a pub near the priory which is possibly one of the best meals I've ever eaten. It was fantastic. If you're ever on Lindisfarne, then get yourself to the Crown and Anchor, you wont regret it. The Ship deserves more than honourable mention but is more of a family pub.